MORE THAN MAKEUP: @JENAPHERMOORE

With a background in painting, LA-based makeup artist Jenapher Moore dabbles in the fantastical, the mythical and the otherworldly. Using strong colour palettes and a seemingly endless array of props and accessories, Jenapher transforms into characters so defined and distinct that it’s hard to believe there isn’t a whole hair, makeup and wardrobe team behind each intricate creation.

If makeup is your main gig, what’s your side hustle?

Makeup is my main gig at the moment. I am currently working at Cosmo Makeup Academy teaching makeup demonstrations on myself as well as models. In my spare time I love drawing and painting portraits, as well as experimenting more with my makeup artistry.

When and how did you start experimenting with more creative makeup looks?

I started experimenting with more creative makeup looks around early 2018 which is when I stopped painting full time. Painting wasn’t really satisfying me at the time, so I took a beauty and advanced makeup course which helped push me to be more creative in other ways.

Top palette pick?

My favorite palette is definitely the Morphe x James Charles Artistry Palette. I used to carry around a whole bag of different palettes with me, but the artistry palette literally has every color I need. I hardly ever wear neutral colors, so having multiple shades of every bright color is super useful in my every day looks.

All-time fave shade or shade-range to experiment and play with?

My favorite colors to play around with are reds and mustard yellows. I feel like a lot of people tend to stay away from brighter colors, but it’s all about experimenting and figuring out which colors work for you. Makeup to me isn’t about making myself look better, it’s about the artistry, and being able to transfer my emotions into a creative look.

All-time fave lip product?

My all time favorite lip products are the Kat Von D Beauty Everlasting Liquid Lipsticks. My go-to shade is Vampira, which is a deep burgundy red. I tend to stay away from pink under toned nudes since I feel like they don’t vibe with my fair skin tone.

If you had to survive on only one makeup brand, which one would it be and why?

I’ve recently been obsessed with Milk Makeup since I’m in the process of transferring to only cruelty free/vegan makeup. I like how their brand is very inclusive yet versatile; it’s very natural but at the same time dramatic.

Who’s your major makeup icon and why?

Most of my looks are based off of Pat McGrath. My favorite style of makeup is editorial/avant-garde, and she is the epitome of that. I am constantly looking at runway makeup looks for inspiration and am always mesmerized by the way she is able to interpret colors and shapes.

What’s your signature, go-to look?

My go-to look would be red eyeshadow with huge winged eyeliner, smoked out under eye, straight eyebrows and a dark lipstick.

What’s the most annoying trend in makeup to you?

I’ve never really been annoyed by any makeup trends. I feel as though makeup doesn’t have any rules and I love seeing makeup artists create unconventional looks. A lot of beauty influencers I see on social media look like clones, so I feel it’s better to stand out, whether it be creating ridiculous looks or not.

What’s your most favourite look you’ve done to date?

My favorite look that i’ve done would have to be a recreation of a doll originally done by @xhanthi on Instagram. I experimented with pastel colors and even made my own hat out of newspapers and pages from a book. It definitely challenged me as an artist and creator.

Is there a person or a time that inspires the way you do your makeup? An era, or a muse?

An era that constantly inspires me is the 20s and 30s dramatic smokey eyes and thin expressive eyebrows. I also adore makeup brands from the 70s such as Biba Makeup.

How do you feel social platforms like Instagram and YouTube will continue to influence makeup artistry in the future?

I think social platforms will always continue to influence makeup artistry because we are constantly being influenced by each other’s art. Whenever I’m in a makeup rut, I will go onto my Pinterest app and get inspired by certain colors or shapes. I also love recreating artist’s drawings/paintings and challenging myself in that way to create a three dimensional art piece.

What’s your “why” - why do you do what you do with makeup?

I love using makeup as a creative outlet because I tend to have a lot of emotions that I put into my looks. Whether I’m feeling sad or upset, I always turn to makeup to put myself in a better place. It also makes me feel productive because I just turned my negativity into a beautiful work of art.

CHECK OUT JENAPHER ON INSTAGRAM

SEE OUR MORE THAN MAKEUP INTERVIEW WITH @SWEETMUTUALS HERE

SEE OUR MORE THAN MAKEUP INTERVIEW WITH @ARENAVI HERE

SEE OUR MORE THAN MAKEUP INTERVIEW WITH @FXBEAN HERE

MORE THAN MAKEUP: @SWEETMUTUALS

Featured by the likes of Paper Magazine and Vogue, painter and makeup artist Ali aka @sweetmutuals has been making waves as a voice for young black women in the makeup and beauty industry. Art movements become noticeable themes in her looks, from Pop Art to Impressionism and Surrealism, with a particular focus on bringing vibrant colour to the forefront and a consistent penchant for patterns and repeated symbols or icons. In Ali’s case, the face really does become a canvas for art.

If makeup is your side hustle, what’s your main gig?/ If makeup is your main gig, what’s your side hustle?

Makeup is both my main gig and side hustle. I am a senior in high school so it could be my main gig, but to me they are about the same. Hopefully makeup can officially be my main gig!

When and how did you start experimenting with more creative makeup looks?

Officially August 27, 2018 but it was a progression that started around 2013.

Top palette pick?

I would have to say the Mehron Paint Palette! You can make it as subtle or as bold as you want, and since I also work on canvas using acrylic and oil, I feel like I can control it better as it’s paint versus eyeshadow.

All-time fave shade or shade-range to experiment and play with?

I love blue or minty green! Pastel colors also always amaze me.

All-time fave lip product?

Fenty Beauty Gloss Bomb!

If you had to survive on only one makeup brand, which one would it be and why?

Fenty Beauty! I’m biased, but she’s the first to come out with the most shade ranges in foundation and I stand by that!

Who’s your major makeup icon and why?

I don’t have a major makeup icon but the thing that really inspired me was seeing beautiful black women in magazines with bold lipsticks and eyeshadow, it made me feel proud to be myself.

What’s your signature, go-to look?

My bare face and some lip gloss! 

What’s the most annoying trend in makeup to you?

Blackface.

What’s your most favourite look you’ve done to date?

I’m really proud of my Nike look!

Is there a person or a time that inspires the way you do your makeup? An era, or a muse?

My mom inspires me. She is my reason for being, she gives me so much hope and love! She’s my best friend.

How do you feel social platforms like Instagram and YouTube will continue to influence makeup artistry in the future?

Instagram is how I got all my followers/recognition. I feel like that, and Youtube, brings you to so many influential people which then brings you to some life changing events. 

What’s your “why” - why do you do what you do with makeup?

I want to be a role model to black people. Black women who aren’t like your stereotypical women or are secure about their skin. I want to be a role model to black artists and black creatives. I feel like there will never be enough black artists, so I am here to inspire my black community and say that it’s okay to be you.

Check out @sweetmutuals on Instagram

See our More Than Makeup interview with @arenavi here

See our More Than Makeup interview with @fxbean here

MORE THAN MAKEUP: @ARENAVI

Arielle reimagines what it means to apply makeup, using craft elements like string, paper and beads along with glossy, watercolour textures to manipulate new shapes. Not one to be caught up by the boundaries of conventional makeup, Ary allows cultural context, literature, and a strong awareness of societal imbalances to inform her creative drive - what results is a colourful, diverse portfolio of looks from a daring young artist sure to make waves.

If makeup is your side hustle, what’s your main gig?

Makeup is my side-hustle but I don’t care about any job like I care about makeup. I work as a desk-girl for a local salon and that’s my main source of income, but I spend all my emotional energy on my Instagram and art. I would love to be a freelance artist in the future, or even be able to support myself off of Instagram alone. For now, my art comes at my own expense.

When and how did you start experimenting with more creative makeup looks?

I started experimenting with more avant-garde looks in the summer of 2018. I haven’t been doing it for very long, but it’s the only thing that got me noticed in the currently over-saturated beauty scene. Like any social media marketing guru will tell you: keep doing what works! There really was no “how”, it’s just a matter of deciding that you want to stick out in the crowd. I had shaved my head in the spring of 2018, but I wasn’t satisfied by that fleeting taste of freedom. I want every artist out there to know that they don’t need to follow the wave if it doesn't make them happy. You don't need to be pretty, talented, or confident to be an artist. I want everyone to know that the only thing stopping them from doing something unique is themselves. You are me before I made the decision to do my thing.

“I want everyone to know that the only thing stopping them from doing something unique is themselves”

Top palette pick?

My top palette pick would have to be the Coloured Raine Vivid Pigment Palette. It has the best pigmentation of anything I’ve ever used and no patchiness whatsoever.

All-time fave shade or shade-range to experiment and play with?

I don’t really have a favourite shade range or colour family because I go through so many different phases with my makeup. One day I’ll be pining over yellows, the next day pinks, and so on and so forth. I generally don’t wear nudes or neutrals because they don’t inspire me as much.

All-time fave lip product?

My favourite lip product will probably always be gloss. Anastasia glosses have always been a favourite, and Colourpop glosses are a close second. Someday I’m going to own every Pat McGrath product in existence, starting with her lip glosses.

If you had to survive on only one makeup brand, which one would it be and why?

That’s such a good question! If I had to pick one brand I’d be so sad. I would have to choose Image Skincare products. They’re the only brand of skincare that has been truly good to my skin. I am a total skincare freak because ever since I was a kid I’ve had like, the werrrrrrrst dry skin. Image skincare is made completely of plants, all pure plant ingredients. This isn’t sponsored, I’m just desperate to be hydrated.

Who’s your major makeup icon and why?

I don’t have a singular artist who inspired me, and I don’t think I could ever put one of them above all the rest. Jackie Aina taught me that activism and the beauty community have to go together. Billie Eilish taught me that beauty is about what you can make others feel. Marie Dausell taught me that there are rules to be broken. Nicki Minaj taught me that femininity is ferocious. Emilia Fart taught me that beauty is honest.

What’s your signature, go-to look?

My signature look always includes thick, sharp eyeliner and feathery brows and eyelashes. Of course, we can’t forget the gloss.

What’s the most annoying trend in makeup to you?

The most annoying trend in makeup, to me, is that we dump on women for playing with trends. It’s a trend in the community that we belittle others (primarily women) for not having all their “T”s crossed and “I”s dotted. We cheer on every white boy who picks up his mother’s lipstick while we rag on trans artists, queer artists, gender non-conforming artists, and we constantly cancel non-white artists if their hairline is crooked, if they’re too loud, or if they don’t perfectly mirror straight, white, cisgendered artists. My least favourite trend in makeup is that LGBT+, non-white and impoverished artists are left out of the ‘community’.

What’s your most favourite look you’ve done to date?

My favourite look to date is probably one of the first three looks you see in my feed. I am constantly learning and growing as an artist, so I can't really pick a favourite. I have a lot of emotion towards each piece because they all remind me of what I was going through at the time.

Is there a person or a time that inspires the way you do your makeup? An era, or a muse?

“I have a lot of emotion towards each piece because they all remind me of what I was going through at the time”

This is so difficult to choose! I am so in love with makeup as an extension of fashion. I’m so grateful to live in 2019, ‘cause like, we can see every era of fashion and choose which one we like the most, but we don’t have to experience the painful bits of history. I don’t have to live in nearly as much fear for my life as a queer woman would have had to in the 60s, 70s, or so on. I can dress in my own personalised expression of an era like the 20s or 40s, but nobody has cut my throat and dumped me in a river for living as a strong-willed woman, a queer person, or the sort. I do suffer from disabilities but I’m from a privileged, middle-class family so all my needs are met, my prescriptions are filled, and my doctor visits are covered. There is no better time to be alive other than now (for middle-class Americans with little to no life experience).

How do you feel social platforms like Instagram and YouTube will continue to influence makeup artistry in the future?

Social media will probably always influence makeup and art in the future. It is, unfortunately, a billion-dollar leg of capitalism that simultaneously supports the privileged at the expense of foreign nations and people. The marketing side of social media is relatively new, and with that comes a lot of trial-and-error and rapid changes. How the future may look, I can hardly imagine. Right now it’s seriously looking like I might need to step up my TikTok game.

What’s your “why” - why do you do what you do with makeup?

There is a quote from a favourite book of mine, Slaughterhouse-Five, that reads “Why you? Why us for that matter? Why anything? Because this moment simply is. Have you ever seen bugs trapped in amber? [...] Well, here we are, Mr. Pilgrim, trapped in the amber of this moment. There is no why.”

Why does anyone do anything? Well, probably because it feels to them like the right thing. It moves you, it frees you; there is no why.

Check out @arenavi on Instagram

See our previous More Than Makeup interview here

MORE THAN MAKEUP: @FXBEAN

Armed with bubblegum-pop colours and a wig for every occasion, makeup artist Bean is serving us bold, colourful characters with an always-smouldering gaze. Her uncanny ability to transform into a new animated persona in each new post keeps her art unpredictable, and her audience unwavering.

If makeup is your side hustle, what’s your main gig?

Working retail! Which is the worst and I hate it, but something's gotta pay the bills.


When and how did you start experimenting with more creative makeup looks?

I've been playing with face paint and FX makeup since I was 14! I can't remember exactly why I started, but I'm sure it had something to do with social media.



Top palette pick?

Sugarpill's Pro Palette (you get to customize and pick the shades yourself)! Sugarpill has such bright, pigmented and fun colours, plus they are cruelty free and most of the eyeshadows are vegan!


All-time fave shade or shade-range to experiment and play with?

Red, always! Red finds it's way into so many of my looks. 

All-time fave lip product?

Nyx Cosmetics Lip Oil. Hydrating, looks like gloss, but isn't sticky at all (and cheap). For lipstick, again, Nyx Soft Matte Lip Creams (Monte Carlo is my go-to red)!


If you had to survive on only one makeup brand, which one would it be and why?

Colourpop! They have everything, they're cheap, but the quality is amazing. They also have unconventional shades and products, and those are the brands I usually love the most.

Who’s your major makeup icon and why?

She's not so much a makeup icon but Nadia Lee Cohen gives me SO much inspiration. I also love Frances (@beautyspock on instagram) she is gorgeous and her looks are dreamy as hell.

What’s your signature, go-to look?

I'd say my style is still evolving, but for now my go-to is 50s, pin-up style versions of anything. The hair and aesthetics of that period are very timeless to me!

What’s the most annoying trend in makeup to you?

I'm really about artists doing whatever they like - makeup is meant to be fun! But I have noticed that the artists who get the most recognition are those who Facetune their pores, skin texture, eyeshadow, highlighter, and rip-off smaller artists without crediting. Brands also eat it up for some reason? In 2019, I want unconventional, creative, genuine, absurd, and colourful artists from ALL walks of life to be in the spotlight.

“In 2019, I want unconventional, creative, genuine, absurd, and colourful artists from ALL walks of life to be in the spotlight.”

What’s your most favourite look you’ve done to date?

Any of my twin looks - but probably the angel/devil, and the house look! My favourite looks are always the ones where I wasn't sure if it would actually turn out how I envisioned it, but when they do turn out, it's that much more satisfying! 

Is there a person or a time that inspires the way you do your makeup? An era, or a muse?

I already touched on this accidentally, but again, the 40s, 50s and 60s! I love the big curls, the scarves, the makeup, and I love that now in 2019 I can use the inspiration I get from these iconic aesthetics towards my own artistry.

How do you feel social platforms like Instagram and YouTube will continue to influence makeup artistry in the future?

I hope that in the future there's a shift from the neutral, natural glam makeup we're always shown to fun, colourful, unconventional makeup. I'm already watching the small unconventional makeup community grow, so hopefully I'm not too far off! There are so many talented, creative artists on these platforms who deserve 100 x more recognition! Makeup is not just makeup anymore, it is art - and we should all recognise that.

What’s your “why” - why do you do what you do with makeup?

I've always loved art and being creative, whether it be drawing, makeup, painting etc., but using my own face and body as a canvas is truly "my thing". It is something that makes me so happy, gives me purpose and keeps me motivated. Pushing boundaries with makeup is important to me, incorporating fabric, newspaper, and fun wigs into my looks is a way to show people that you can use anything to be creative. I hope I can inspire people to bring a little more weirdness and colour into their lives and the world by doing so!

“Makeup is not just makeup anymore, it is art - and we should all recognise that.”

Check out Bean’s Instagram

INTRODUCING: MORE THAN MAKEUP

Like any art medium, makeup is one that can take a variety of forms…

Abstract or traditional, explorative of shape, texture, line and form within the framework of the human face and body. With Instagram and Youtube heralding a new age of beauty communities and gurus, there is an entire realm of makeup artists and their portfolios begging to be gazed upon with the kind of awe-stricken wonder usually reserved for Picassos or Remembrandts. Is it too much of a stretch to compare this new wave of creative youth to some of history’s greatest artists? Or is it remiss to look past what is undoubtedly the future of our artistic landscape, embroidered with references to great moments in history, of not only art but identity and culture?

From left to right, top to bottom;
@morgane.nicolas, @rachelkarinaart, @nadineartistry, @xohighglo, @yakubgodgave, @coolgirlswearmugler

WELCOME TO THE EMPIRE

I’m so excited to finally launch Illicit Empress!

Welcome to the empire; 

I wanted to create a virtual playground for thoughts, feelings and ideas to connect with people beyond my laptop screen. 

This is my public commitment to nourish my creative side on a continual basis.

The aim of this is also to encourage more collaboration, to connect with likeminded (or differently minded) individuals and create new dialogues and discourses in work together. Illicit Empress will shine the spotlight on creatives and innovators making waves in their field. I’m so thrilled to be able to launch this site with the wonderful talents of Melissa Cowan (photographer) and Chloe Rose (HMUA)!

Feel free to get in touch via ellie@illicitempress.com if you are interested in working with me, and I would love to chat about possible projects together.

 

Thanks for visiting!

Watch this space :)