CATHEDRALS OF SICILY
Palermo, Sicily was a gritty city full of architectural treasures and local gems hiding in plain sight. From Byzantine cathedrals to solid-gold rooms in old palazzos, the pouring rain throughout our weekend trip only seemed to complement the muted mood of the city. Food ranged from traditional pastas and cakes, to midnight arancini balls and even sheep’s spleen via street food vendors. A city with both street art-covered slums and an opulent opera experience, Palermo has far too much character to let slide under the radar.
HIDDEN ATHENS
Dinner and drinks in Plaka, ambling down Ermou and exploring Monastiraki, a stormy visit to the Acropolis - and no Greek trip is complete without a characteristically delicious Freddo Cappuccino. You can remain in the heart of Athens and it's central touristy areas, and still uncover so much more hiding underneath.
THE POLITICALLY-CHARGED GRAFFITI OF ATHENS
Greece’s economic struggles have been widely publicised world-over for a number of years now, and the financial hardship has obviously affected society in the country’s capital of Athens.
With a surging underground scene of artists, writers and musicians, the oft-polarising, always-tenuous debates about what’s best for the country take centre stage in local art regardless of medium. Though one particular medium - street art and graffiti - stands out above the rest.
Using the very brick and mortar infrastructure of the city as it’s canvas, the movement wields power in it’s confronting presentation. No innocent tourist is safe from the hard truth; walking down Athens’ most popular streets does not occur without constant reminders that the ancient country is battling now more than ever to keep it’s head above the water.
BERLIN...WITHOUT THE CLUBS AND BARS
It's not unusual for people to head to Berlin specifically for it's nightlife, and while it's commonly known as the best destination in the world for those seeking that sort of thing out, it often means that much of Berlin's colourful history and rich artistic culture is swept under the rug and left forgotten by 20-something techno-heads. Which, when you think about it, is a little sad - the city has a magnitude to offer outside of it's famously vibrant nightlife. And so, that's exactly what we did - we did our trip to Berlin without going to a single bar or nightclub, and had an incredible time.
Free Walking Tour
Famous world-over, Sandeman's New Europe Tours do a particularly amazing walking tour in Berlin, surely thanks in part to the fact that a lot of the most important sites to see in the city are within close and walkable proximity. Start your first day in Berlin with this one, giving you the chance to gain your bearings in the city and soak up and appreciate the historical landmarks that form the backdrop for so much of the art and lifestyle of the city you see today.
Burgermeister
Like most of Berlin’s hotspots, Burgermeister is housed in a space that once catered to something wildly different to it's current-day use. Burgers and beers, in this case, have taken over a space once inhabited by train station bathrooms. And, as one of Berlin's top 10 restaurants, you surely can't go wrong.
East Side Gallery
As it's not as central as most of Berlin's other popular sightseeing destinations, the famous East Side Gallery is worth a visit of it's own. Find your favourite iconic murals for a quick flick, and as you walk, enjoy a moment to reflect on the powerful underlying values that the wall's remnants now represent.
Urban Spree Galerie
In summer the larger Urban Spree area may be overflowing with activity, but that doesn’t mean you should give it a miss in winter - there's always great art exhibitions and a great store stocking prints and books by artists both international and local.
Small Contemporary Art Spaces
Walking around Kreuzberg, Friedrichshain and Neukölln is your best bet for this one. Most galleries welcome photography in case you're looking to document your favourite pieces, or spice up your Instagram to ensure people know how artistically inclined and sophisticated you are - hey, I'm not judging.
Shopping
Voo Store is the Berliner hypebeast's dream, stocking everything from Marni and Proenza Schouler to MM6 and the newest Nikes. It’s also great for a coffee stop, with plenty of reading material à la fashion publications also available.
COMO ENCOUNTER
DISNEYLAND BY NIGHT
As night falls upon the land, new life is breathed into Disneyland...
Colourful, beaming lights illuminate the park and Discoveryland in particular comes alive.
PARISIAN THRILL
November suits Paris so beautifully - there’s something charmingly melancholic about the gloomy, overcast skies, the way they complement both the stark, industrial, etched-out design of the Eiffel and the romantic yet austere presence of Notre Dame at the same time.
VENICE ROMANZA
Bella Venezia, in all her pristine, postcard-perfect glory; the crystal waters of magical canals and enchanting gondola rides, a palazzo here and a basilica there, clocktowers with whimsical zodiac art, and charming laneways pose the perfect backdrop for romance-fuelled couples and families alike. Oh, and - an evening spent at the opera is undeniably the cherry on top when embracing Venice's old-Italy opulence.
A WEEKEND IN TUSCANY (FLORENCE, PISA, SIENNA, LUCCA)
One of the more central regions of Italy, Tuscany is home to some of the most breathtaking landscapes, artistic masterpieces, and rich, colourful history and culture that most of us know Italy for today.
I loved having the opportunity to not only visit the astounding Florence but also Sienna, Lucca and Pisa (yep, as in the Leaning Tower). With architecture and sculpture so exquisite, old cities and winding roads so quaint, and sunsets each evening so marvellously stunning - a trip across Tuscany is undoubtedly an essential for any traveller wanting to learn more about Italy's truest treasures.
EXPLORING LAGO GARDA
With pallid blue and matte silver expanses of water, this autumn-time visit to northern Italy’s Lago di Garda was strangely peaceful in what would normally be a tourist-filled haven. With pops of colour in the form of florals decorating the quaint town of Sirmione and friendly ducks and geese abound, a trip to Lake Garda serves as the perfect backdrop for a day trip from Milano.
ISLANDS OF LAGO MAGGIORE
5 DAYS IN SWITZERLAND
With so many beautiful cities, staying in only Zurich would be a missed opportunity for anyone visiting Switzerland for the first time - the picturesque lakes and rivers, restaurant strips and gardens all across the melting pot of cultures that is Switzerland are simply far too lovely to miss.
WINTERTHUR
A transformed industrial area with a quiet community and a peaceful, early morning charm played the role of home base for my stay in Switzerland. University students, bars, cobblestone paths and a lively night market set the backdrop for Winterthur.
BERN
While Zurich is often mistaken for Switzerland's capital, it is in fact the whimsical beauty that is Bern.
Nearing the French region of Switzerland, Bern plays host to the famed Tour de France each year, and is home a most unlikely yet adorable symbol; the bear. Not only can you visit them in an open enclosure known as Bärengraben, but keep your eyes peeled for the symbol of the bear all around the town's infrastructure.
LUCERNE
A Swiss Venice if there ever was one, Lucerne was the quaint, fresh and Sunday-stroll-worthy setting for a family day. Touristy, yes - but with such an impressive lake filled with flowers, a carnival and a rowing regatta, it was certainly for good reason.
ZURICH
And of course, what trip to Switzerland would be complete without a visit to the famed Zurich? With an Old Town to rival any iconic European city's, the atmosphere had a certain comfort and chillness about it to contrast some of the more fiery passions of neighbouring countries.
HIKARI
If there is one incredibly striking element to Japan, no matter which of it's bright cities you find yourself in, it's the lights. From the neon green tubing in Osaka's Dotonbori, to the blinding white screens of Shibuya Crossing, to the musical water fountain shows complete with violet and fuchsia illuminations outside of Kyoto Railway Station, you can't help but allow yourself to be drenched in the over-saturation, over-stimulation of Japan's obsession with lights.
Hikari is my photo series of iPhone-shot imagery from throughout my trip across Japan in November to December of 2016. I hope you enjoy these squared close-crops of the most beautiful, sometimes intricate, oft-impacting lights of this country like no other.
ALCATRAZ ER
Not many restaurants force you to clear your throat and loudly say "Pussy" to place your order, and not many restaurants have you dining in cramped prison cells. Then again, not many restaurants are like Alcatraz ER.
Thanks to a viral video, the restaurant has become known to travellers, foodies and lovers of all things eccentric across the globe - and, being someone who I'd like to think fits into all three of those categories, it was a place I was absolutely not going to miss.
Even the detail in the waiting area was up to par - once we tracked down the restaurant in the second story of a Shibuya building, warning signs flashed and the graffiti across the dilapidated concrete walls was telling. Alcatraz ER is a themed restaurant like so many in Japan, but it's eerie commitment to it's unique concept - a medical prison, or mental asylum - is what made it unforgettable.
The wait was thankfully short, and our charismatic host led us through the restaurant, greeting us with the characteristic Japanese welcome ("Irashaimase!") before gesturing towards tiny cramped staircases that led to our cell. We sat on the floor cross-legged behind metal bars, and our metal table clanged as we worked out how exactly to arrange our limbs without knocking ourselves out against the low-hanging industrial lights. To order, there was a metal pole chained to the bars - and like the prisoners we now were, we had to use it to bang against the bars to get a waiters' attention. The menu? Something else entirely.
Fried rice boobs, beef pussy, you name it. The drinks were the real appeal though - their signature cocktails with dildo stirrers and IV blood bags were standout favourites, but my used-condom cocktail won out - the presentation and the way it was made in front of us complete with "semen" dripping out of the condom (hmm) was mind-blowingly unlike anything I could have expected.
Then came the crowning jewel - dessert.
How could I not have ordered this exquisite delicacy? As soon as I set eyes on it months ago, eyes glued to my laptop screen, I knew I had to have it.
If you've got the guts to go and experience Alcatraz ER, make sure it's something you don't miss.
THE FIRST 3 THINGS YOU NOTICE ABOUT JAPAN
There's nothing quite like the fresh feeling of stepping foot in a country you've never been to before. Ah, the sweet scent of a new Enlightening Experience™ on the horizon. Although I'm back in Melbourne now, there were some particularly interesting quirks of modern Japanese life that have remained stuck in my curiosity since my return.
1) They have a thing with rubbish
Rubbish bins around town are really scarce, so don't expect to find them lining the streets. Get into the habit of carrying small plastic bags in your day pack to have somewhere to stash your rubbish and take it with you - carrying around rubbish openly is generally frowned upon. Of course, so is eating casually as you walk down the street - so if you're being polite, chances are this won't affect you too much.
In Japan, there are strict rules when it comes to categorising your rubbish too. Often, you're required to separate your waste into one of (typically) five categories. The keenness to dispose of waste thoughtfully in Japan is refreshing and quite honestly, a great way to force some perspective about our own waste habits back home.
2) Holy shit, the toilets (pun intended? You decide)
There's always been the stereotype about Tokyo as "Future City", but you really feel the full weight of that phrase when you need to take a leak. In-built bidets with controllable water pressure, seat heaters, sometimes more buttons and settings than a TV remote - but the speaker with your own personal waterfall sounds to give you privacy while you relieve yourself has to be the pièce de résistance (this also seems to have the double-use of encouraging your own "flow"). Really makes you appreciate your time with Mother Nature, I'll tell ya that.
3) Convenience Stores really live up to their name
Honestly, I'm damn near certain there is nothing more reliable than a Japanese 7/11. Manga? 7/11. Noodle dishes and full bento boxes? 7/11. Alcohol? (It's legal to drink in public here, do what you will with that information...)
Australian 7/11s are pitiable in comparison, no doubt about it - time for us to step up our game, IMHO.
More on Japan to come, of course - stay tuned, angels.